Model Lily Cole's favourite places in the world

The author and environmental podcast host toured the world as a model but these days embraces a go-slow approach. Having appeared on screen in more than 15 films she is now directing her own shorts
Lily Cole
Simon Emmett / Trunk Archive

Have you changed the way you travel for sustainable reasons?
‘Whether or not sustainable travel is possible is a question I have considered deeply. On the one hand, travel has so many positive societal benefits – allowing us to shift our perspectives, learn from other cultures, bring important economic benefits to communities. But tourism has, of course, a large and growing carbon footprint. I have a wanderer’s spirit – I grew up with stories of my parents hitch-hiking and sailing around the world – and was always itching to go exploring myself. I try to choose environmentally minded hotels. But the main change I’ve made is in relation to duration. Call it slow travel. I’ve tried to apply the mantra used for consumerism of buying less but better. So I take fewer trips, but I make them longer. I haven’t completely ruled out flying, but if I can avoid getting on a plane I will, and then the journey becomes part of the experience.’

The Douro, PortugalGetty Images

Did you manage to get anywhere in the past year?
‘Last summer we moved from the UK to the Portuguese countryside. I packed my car with essentials and spent several weeks driving through Europe. We stopped to see friends and family en route – in France, southern Spain and Ibiza. Since arriving in Portugal, I miss the magic that comes with adventures, but I’ve also been focusing on the positives of stillness – digging into the landscape, watching the details of the season changes.’

Where have you felt happiest?
‘One of the things privilege has taught me is that happiness is inside our minds, not a location in the world. That being said, when my body is submerged in warm sea water it is usually easier to be happy.’

Rome, ItalyGetty Images

Which is your favourite city?
‘There are so many wonderful ones, but my mind goes to Rome first. I wrote a university paper on Bernini and Borromini, and toured the city alone to study their work. Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza church, designed by Borromini, is one of my favourite buildings – it remains a mystery how he engineered the space. And now I am really enjoying spending some time in Lisbon. I grew up as a city girl and thought I’d never leave but have made a home for myself in the countryside for the past few years. There is an energy to cities though – the serendipity of encounters.’

First trip away without your parents?
‘My first-first time, I was working in New York and Los Angeles as a model, aged 15. I had to tell my school I was sick to get days off as they weren’t super-supportive of modelling – I’m not sure how I got away with it, considering my hair was dyed bright orange on the trip. But the real rite-of-passage journey was when I was 16. I spent nearly a month in Japan. I modelled a bit, but mostly I went around exploring. I learned a little Japanese, and it felt like I had entered another world.’

Describe a holiday disaster
‘I drive a Tesla electric car, which is wonderful 99 per cent of the time, with stations dotted around to charge it in an hour. But I’ve had a couple of hairy moments where I’ve been close to zero miles left. Once in Cornwall we made it to the charger with about five miles to spare – that’s when the Tesla became the Stressla.’

One thing you’ve taken from a hotel?
‘A soft pink bath mat from The Ritz. I was young and it was naughty. I wouldn’t do it again, but many years later I still use it.'

Aeolian Islands in SicilyGetty Images

A great little place you know?
‘I’m in love with the Aeolian Islands in Sicily, in particular Filicudi. There’s this colourful, eccentric restaurant on the coast called La Sirena. The entrance to the loos bears a hand-painted sign: POSSIBILITIES. The bar next to it sells vintage T-shirts and makes strong Margaritas. Last time we were there they were playing awesome Jamaican tunes. Apparently I’m not alone in treasuring this hidden corner – when the Italian artist Maurizio Cattelan found it, he became an investor.’

The most interesting person you’ve met on your travels?
‘In the Amazon rainforest, I got to know members of the Yawanawá tribe who I have remained friends with since. I interviewed Putanny and Nixiwaka Yawanawá for my book and podcast – there is so much to learn from their history, their world view and spirituality. One of the things I love about travelling is how it makes me open to meeting new people: chatting to those you encounter, whether a taxi driver, waiter or Airbnb host, you can uncover so many insights. So much so that I once considered doing a podcast of interviews with taxi drivers.’

A memorable shooting location?
‘When I was modelling I visited extraordinary destinations and I often tried to stay a few extra days. A highlight was a story with Tim Walker in India for British Vogue. He took us to the most unusual spots. We went to an abandoned palace in Dungarpur and I remember seeing faces staring at me from the town below as I hung off the side of a turret in a giant dress fashioned from mate- rial resembling a butterfly net. A few years ago I made a short with Carlos Acosta about the ballet school Fidel Castro and Che Guevara had planned on the site of a country club golf course. The architecture in Cuba is so astonishing that I felt inspired to return. The last film I directed, Balls, was shot in Liverpool. It’s a lovely place with lots of character, but not the most glamorous. I have to admit, writing a new project that might be set near Liverpool I started to wonder if I ought to re-envision it somewhere warmer.’